What we did was create a small platform to mount to fabrics where all four sides were held tight but without stretching the material. This was completely perpendicular to the camera which was locked overhead on a boomed tripod.
We used a 90mm macro lens in order to capture the close fibres of the material and provide files with a high enough resolution and zoom ratio. The aperture was also stopped down heavily in order to capture incredibly sharp images across the entire image frame.
Lighting was kept relatively minimal, using large modifiers at a distance to allow for a soft light fall-off, although we chose not to cocoon the products to avoid losing any texture definition in the materials.
As the swatch books were to be printed in Europe, we used the FOGRA39 profile for managing all CMYK files, whilst web versions were managed in sRGB. A colour chart was used throughout the project to ensure that all white balance and tint was accurate both in-camera and in the final imagery.